Monday, July 22, 2013

CRITICISM AND SUPERFICIALITY



Since the DIY community has discovered the first RH amplifiers published on the net, back at the beginning of 2001, there has been a lot of appraisal by those who built with success the various amps (in particular the RH84 and RH807) – and a line of critics has emerged as well, which is both healthy and normal: without criticism, mankind would not have accomplished so much.

Most of the criticism falls in the following categories:
1.       RH amps are not original – there were a lot of amplifiers in the past that with plate to plate feedback (Schade and other examples).
2.       RH amps are not optimal – the driver should be a pentode (because most of the above mentioned sources say so).

There is a widespread misunderstanding among the critics that I claim the invention of anode to anode feedback, in spite of the fact that in the tube era the feedback path was known and applied in various forms. Just as usual (and how conveniently for the critics, if I might add) I cannot reply since I have no access to the forum – it is a fact that responding to harsh criticism, protesting copycats, and posting with arguments showing facts instead of empty words, leads to banning and expulsion. The conflict of interest between forum stakeholders – people who defend their arguments by saying, basically, “I am the authority because I say so”, or “because I build amps in that way (and I do it for money, so do not step on my toes)” is more than evident to all those who are willing to consider it.

While I have never actually claimed the “invention” of a certain feedback path, I was in all sincerity not even aware of the existence of the literature mentioned (like the RDH 4th edition which is often mentioned, or the famous work of Schade for RCA, which is basically an addendum to the datasheets and application data for the RCA beam tubes) – and have read none of the works mentioned at the time when I designed the first RH amps. The well-fed cannot fully understand the hungry – or what hunger actually is: living in the USA or Canada, it is very hard to imagine that such (seminal?) works (most examples are actually very common or normal books, but tend to be exalted by those who find it is in their interest to do so) were neither available nor accessible in socialist countries! Furthermore, in 2000 we still had dial-up (expensive dial-up, if I might add) and downloading a couple MB worth of tube datasheets was considered a feast! Besides, I do not recall being able to download the RDH 4th edition back in 2000, or the work of Schade regarding beam tubes. Thus, in a way, I had no examples to draw on for inspiration except my own ideas: that is maybe the reason why I keep defending this notion – my ideas are my own.

What I claim is that my designs are fresh and different, and up to the point when it comes to feasibility and results. The freshness and difference comes from the fact that before 2001 there have been no similar amplifiers published on the net, as far as I am aware (original designs done by the person sharing it, not books or magazines shared with or without the consent of the authors). The feasibility and good results come from what those who have built any of the published RH amplifiers have so far reported, both on forums and in direct e-mail communication. Due to the latter (reported good results), copycats started appearing since 2004, but became much more commonplace near 2009. The 2nd generation amps, characterized by having only the Rfb resistor (the classic anode resistor has disappeared) were first published in forums around 2005, when I built the original RH88 breadbord. Fresh and different ideas, and designs with a high degree of feasibility and success in obtaining good results, that is what is mostly lacking to the critics and their friends – at least when shared and publicised work is concerned.

The latest post linked above mentions “Hugo Gernsback's 1947 Amplifier Builder's Guide”. I have never heard of it, so I did some searching and quite easily found references to it, and – like always when the zealous critics (whose identity in most cases remains hidden behind pseudonims) have something to point out – it is not exactly what they are assuming it to be. In this case, Hugo Gernsback is actually the editor, or publisher – the copyright holder, anyway – of the Radio Craft Library (No. 33): Amplifier Builder’s Guide prepared by the editors. The amplifier mentioned (PA 8W amplifier) is not by H. Gernsback, but rather by Andrew Tait… so much for the attention to detail.

I have so far avoided direct comparison with old designs (while I do sometimes point out the flaws or inaccuracies in copycat designs) because I both felt there was no need, and due to having respect for the work of people who lived in a different era. Like I already stated, the well-fed cannot understand the hungry, and just like RDH or Schade were SF to me before the internet era, and throughout the dial-up internet era – until the moment when kind people shared those works with us – spice simulation and computers were mere science-fiction to the designers of the tube-era (maybe even beyond the imaginable)!

Nevertheless, this time I am going to make an exception, both because I cannot reply otherwise, and because I guess most blog readers will find the comparison interesting. Thus I apologize to the (most probably) late Mr. Tait for dissecting his work in this manner.

The amplifier in question which allegedly resembles the RH amps due to the fact that it shares the same feedback principle is basically a combination of 6L6G output tube and 6SF5 driver. While I have no model available for the 6SF5 (and no intention of writing one specifically) I will use the ECC83 model instead, since the two tubes are very similar – the 6SF5 is (almost exactly) half an ECC83 placed in an octal envelope: so much so, that any good ECC83 would probably test just as good if it could be used as 6SF5 replacement. While the correct operating voltages are not mentioned, the 6L6G is the old 6L6 type tube with 19W dissipation, meaning that with a 200 ohm cathode resistor it will draw approximately 70mA of anode current and 5mA of cathode current with a B+ of 300V (expected anode voltage across the tube of 274V and anode dissipation of 19.18W – too much in practice, but just about adequate to show the principle at work). Maybe a power supply simulation might show higher B+ (leading to improvement in results) but it is quite unreasonable to assume 25 or 30W dissipation capability in a 19W anode dissipation tube.


As the simulation shows, the amplifier is capable of 1.5W output at 3% distortion, with an input sensitivity of 83.33mV RMS (120mV peak).


Pushing the volume up to the 8W limit (actually, the article states 8-10W), the THD is 7.7%, which is much more distortion than would be acceptable for a relaxing listening session in your living room?! . It is important to point out that this happens with an input of 199mV RMS (287mV peak), which you could probably achieve with a tuner or ceramic cartridge.

From the two simulations above, it can be deducted that while the feedback is really taken from the anode of the output tube and fed to the grid (as the author simplifies) by connecting it to the anode of the driver tube, it is not very effective… maybe that is because of the decoupling on the cathode resistor of the driver tube?


Well, after removing that cap the distortion is slightly lower at 7%, but still not adequate for your living room. On the other hand, notice that the input is now 722.22mV RMS (1,04V peak) which cannot be achieved with the above mentioned sources without additional gain (would be fitting for a reel-to-reel tape deck, actually, with a standard 775mV RMS output at 0dB… but I guess those were not available back in 1947?).



Now for a much different approach: this would be (almost) an RH amplifier, and more careful readers might have noticed that the resistors applied to the ECC83 (6SF5, for that matter) are now identical to the combination shown in the RH Universal version 2. All other elements are kept identical for comparison purposes. While some critics have tried to imply high distortion in RH amplifiers, or that RH amp fans are “distortion loving” (freaks?), that is nowhere near the case. I sincerely think that the two amplifiers (RH and original PA) are not the same, although sharing the feedback approach: it is not about the principle, but how well do you apply it. The difference in design is profound to me, from the driver operating point all the way to the feedback resistor and the lack of decoupling cap on the g2 of the output tube - if I went a few steps further, to me the amps would be so far apart that a real comparison in terms of simulation would be pointless - but that does not stop the critics from mixing apples and oranges. Thus the simulation comparison is basically limited to details of the driver circuitry.


At 8W output the circuit of the PA amplifier modified as per RH amplifier principles now has a much more acceptable (although still far from desired) distortion figure of 4.4% - but the input has to be approximately 1V RMS, which would require an additional gain stage in the amplifier to allow for use with the sources that were available at the time. The AC response has also improved in the transition from the 1947 PA amp to RH mod, although the coupling cap has been kept at (nowadays unnecessarily low) 50nF.

This is not an attempt to denigrate the amplifiers of the golden age of tubes: the sources were different, and spice models were definitively SF to the designers of that age. The components at hand were also far from what we have today, both as values and quality. It is often simplified that at a moment in time we have rediscovered tubes and SE amps, and some criticize this move as backward thinking, the senseless embracing of flea powered 50’s amplifiers – but the truth is that modern tube amplifiers have very little in common with their ancestors (less than catches the eye), and the less they have in common - usually the better they sound (cheap clones and copycats excluded). Components have gone a long way since the golden age of tubes, designing has become very easy with spice models and analysis – easy that is, for those who have good ideas and enough knowledge to transform ideas into designs.

Let me now address the other issue – pentode driver. Indeed, why not a pentode driver in RH amps? There has been so much criticism both on the choice of 12AT7 (ECC81) as “driver par excellence” in the RH amplifiers, and the fact that the driver must get out of steam because it is not a pentode…


OK – here is your pentode driver in action, applied to this PA amp. While most components remain with the original (nowadays pointlessly low) values, like the 50nF coupling cap – a few others have been replaced for different values that were not easy to apply in 1947. It is obvious that this amplifier outperforms the original design at 3% distortion for 7.3W of output – and the reason why a pentode should be applied is input sensitivity: at 290mV it is low-ish for the era, but still quite feasible! The larger coupling caps and the removed unnecessary cap from g2 to ground on the output 6L6G help creating a very good AC response – and since the pentode driver is less affected by the absence of “cathode degeneration” feedback due to the decoupling of the cathode resistor, input sensitivity is retained even with the much higher feedback involved.

This pentode driver modification is obviously unobtainium back in 1947, since 6AU6 was still not made – but similar results could probably be achieved with 6J7 or similar tubes. This should explain once and for all "why Langford-Smith (and all the Langford-Smiths that populate the dreams and reality of critics) preferred a pentode driver" (“…did Langford-Smith really understand how the circuit worked? And where did he get off on saying pentode is preferred in the V1 position, I mean really…”): input sensitivity was paramount in order to avoid an additional gain stage. They did not have digital audio and op-amps, the equipment at hand did not have a standard 2V RMS output! On the other hand, what good is 290mV sensitivity in power amplifiers today – unless you are “active-preamplifier challenged”, or prefer using a passive preamp with your analogue FM tuner (because you do not need that much sensitivity with your CD player)?

The pentode driver will actually yield no improvement in distortion at 8W power (compared to the triode driver RH mod of this PA amp), and while representing a viable alternative, it remains to be seen how good it would actually sound. Because, schematics do not produce sound – while the actual components do. Just like several different make or sub-type tubes from the ECC81 family will measure approximately the same but will have a different sound (just to mention a garden variety ECC81 compared to 6021) – how is the 6AU6 going to fare? How many 6AU6 types are there to be found and tried, compared to ECC81? The most important point is that that there will be no improvement in power output, because that will be limited by the output tube – how much power can you extract from an EL84 in SE mode? What is more limiting, the type of driver (relevant mainly to the nowadays unnecessary input sensitivity) or the output tube (where an EL34 with 25W anode dissipation will indeed have twice the output of an EL84 with 12W anode dissipation). Let me remind you that we are not talking about low to medium triodes with a bias of 80V, but pentodes and beam tetrodes with a bias voltage of 8-18V! Last but not least, what is the difference between 5W and 10W? If you own high efficiency speakers (at least 96dB/W/m) you might probably miss the difference… but if you own low efficiency multi-driver speakers (i.e. 86dB/W/m) it will mean the difference between listening to some music, and trying to listen at low levels! This fact goes a long way towards explaining the huge success of the 211 and 845 amplifiers at the beginning of the SE revival in Hi-End audio: at 20-25W output power, we are basically just enough on the loudness target even with the lower sensitivity Hi-End speakers of the 90s!

That said, maybe the critics should concentrate on claiming that a 45 (or 10Y for that matter) cannot be beat and what you need is a pair of efficient 104dB/W/m speakers. The correct reply would probably have to be somewhere between the price of the two music reproduction combinations, taking as well into account the space (cost of rental, or cost of additional mortgage funds related to a larger living room) needed to house a pair of Klipschorns.

Just a last remark on RHD 4th edition and page 333 showing various anode-to-anode feedback arrangements… I wonder whether the critics of RH amps have actually done any of the math shown on that same page, or just strolled along with their eyes, finding similar looking resistors? Are they sure where would the math lead them?

Friday, June 14, 2013

Why creative people should avoid forums?

I have posted the below in two threads of a DIY-audio forum:

-----------
[QUOTE=srb02;6863140]
I have also cobbled together the 330v version of this 6v6 SE amp:[url]http://...[/url],
as a simple rectifier tube change fixed voltages. To me, very nice, better bass, alittle less top end.
It just wasn't the same sweet musical sound of the RH84, w/ sylvania blk plates, and a harmonix 12at7. Real nice. It is difficult to describe, other than to my ears, it has a  "vey easy to listen to, sound".
[/QUOTE]

I have already had some problems here for commenting on the way my schematics were butchered. Posts just vanish, it's probably due to a conflict of interests. Do authors have any rights? Never mind, that is why I am not publishing any schematics on forums any more, only on my blog.
Therefore, I am NOT commenting on that.
I am commenting on the fact that when "designers" do not posses the knowledge they claim,  problems are bound to happen. Does anyone want to enjoy a RH84 with 6V6? Maybe all octal with 6SL7 driver? Well, all he/she needs to do is apply the driver circuitry of the RH Universal version 2 (totally Universal) to the rest of the RH84 revision 2 schematics.
Yes, those schematics were not available to the public in 2011, but I was available by e-mail... does anyone think I "invented" this approach yesterday? Someone could have asked. But whom can you ask, when the real author is not known...
-------------

The post was "offensive" enough to get me banned on the forum. So much for conflicts of interest, rights of the authors: unfortunately, it seems that at least on some DIY-audio forums the "prominent contributors" are moderators as well - they can delete posts that are not in their best interest, and when doing that, no trace remains, no explanation or reference.

It is not the first time I get banned, and I do not care all that much about it. What I do care is the freedom of expression, the fact that such posts get deleted and thus remain invisible to other visitors - who cannot know what has actually happened, why did the user get banned, and what was so offensive about the particular post.

Italians say "oltre al danno, anche la beffa": to paraphrase, besides being offended by someone's disregard of your work (and the fact that your work is subject to plagiarism), one gets expelled from a community for protesting that fact (while it is those who commit plagiarism who should be expelled). "Plagiarism is considered academic dishonesty and a breach of journalistic ethics. It is subject to sanctions like expulsion." (Quote from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plagiarism) Quite the contrary, it seems that in DIY-audio circles plagiarism is considered as normal, logical, and an "expected personality feature of the DIY-er" (to paraphrase one moderator who considers the modification of the schematics of others without mentioning the author of the original schematics, i.e. the reference - as normal and expected behaviour: those who would like to avoid having their work subject to plagiarism should not post or publish their work).

I beg to differ.

Sunday, May 19, 2013

RH Universal v.2 – Totally Universal



The RH Universal is a derivative of the pilot 2nd generation RH amplifier project – the RH88. When I was working on the 2nd generation design, my main goal was stunning simplicity and lowest possible parts count. The concept was tested on 6550 tubes, both tetrode and triode connected, confirming in practice the auspicious simulation results, and showing that there is no difference in sound between triode and tetrode connection, except for the lower power obtainable in triode mode. While this makes operation of tetrode/pentode tubes in triode mode just a waste of available power, it does however open the possibility to adopt the 2nd generation circuit with triodes, as in the pilot project RH300B.


The 2nd generation circuit however requires relatively high voltages, basically excluding many possible driver tubes and making it unsuitable for many output tubes. The original RH Universal pushes this concept to the limit by making it possible to create adequate operating conditions for a range of tetrode/pentode tubes: with a fixed current draw, anode voltage is simply adjusted by means of changing rectifier type. Thus a wide range of output tubes can be used to full output power – at the expense of strict driver tube limitation (ECC81, eventually ECC82), and low input sensitivity. While low input sensitivity should not be a problem when a good active preamp is used, the driver inflexibility is in stark contrast with the output tube universality.


With a couple of modifications to the original RH Universal circuit, here comes a version 2 – now (almost) totally universal! The basic differences are:
  1. Application of 1st generation driver circuitry – the classic anode resistor returns, allowing more freedom in operation to the driver tube which is not limited by the swing of the output tube.
  2. Adjustable Rfb allowing the circuit to be perfectly tuned for the ECC81 family of double triodes (high-ish mu, relatively high transconductance) – or for the ECC83 family of double triodes (high mu, relatively low transconductance).



The advantages of this version 2 can be summarized as:
  • Total universality – a very wide range of output tubes can be successfully implemented: at the flip of a switch the circuit can be optimized for either of the two different tube types, making it possible to use a wide range of tubes which fit the same socket (and pinout) type, even adding the possibility to combine tube-rolling with different operating points and feedback. Some of the now usable driver tube types may be odd, rare, or low cost types – a personal favorite of mine is a 12BZ7 used as a substitute for ECC83. 
  •  Technical perfection (as far as possible) for the two optimized tube types, and near perfection for similar driver types, allowing for 10-11W output power at approximately 1% distortion levels (with KT88/6550). It goes without saying that maximum output power is higher… and depends on tube type.
A further advantage of the driver universality is the possibility to make an “all octal” version of the amplifier, as 6SN7 and 6SL7 can be alternated with excellent results – and similar tubes like the Mullard ECC35 can be used as well.


While modification of original RH Universal amplifiers is quite simple – the basic difference is one switch and two added resistors per channel – the v2 does not supplant the original. Besides being simpler, maybe more elegant, the original has a slightly different sound due to the 2nd generation driver circuit. The v2 sounds like an RH84 with lots of power, while the original version offers a slightly different nuance to the sound. It goes without saying that nuances are to be heard and judged based on the same passive and active components – the output transformers, caps, and resistors have an important sonic character which cannot be circumvented by simply changing the active components. The perfect combination may be completely individual, and the RH Universal allows for a wide range of active components alternatives on the same passive platform – a range now considerably widened with the version 2 update.

Friday, April 26, 2013

RH-307A



(the DHP RH amp)

An RH amplifier with the 307A (VT225) output tube has been a long delayed project for me, a standing promise since the time of the original RH807. The resemblance between the two tubes actually ends with the 5-pin socket and cap, among other reasons because the 307A is a true pentode – unlike the 807 which is a beam tetrode tube. At the time, datasheets for the 307A were unavailable on the net, and the only reference while I write is a WE datasheet: strangely, because I have never seen a WE 307A, not even a picture of it – the most common 307A (VT225) are Ken-Rad and National Union.

 
While the promised amp was obviously to be an RH type, when I finally decided to design it I was already over the “old” type schematics, but the relatively low anode voltage at which it would operate as compared to the relatively high bias required (i.e. cathode voltage: the voltage swing that the driver tube has to produce will be significant) meant that the tried, tested, and faithful ECC81 family might not be entirely suitable for this task, unless used in the original RH type schematics. This is where the ECC88/6DJ8 family enters: the very high trans-conductance allows this tube to obtain the necessary voltage swing (approximately 60V p-to-p) while being operated at relatively low anode voltage (low, that is, to ECC81 standards).


The RH-307A is largely based on the RH Universal schematics – the main differences are the different driver circuitry and the fact that being a direct heated pentode, the 307A has a slightly complicated “cathode circuit”. The anode of the driver tube is connected in RH 2nd generation style (Rfb being at the same time the anode resistor of the driver tube), and g2 (the screen grid) is connected to B+ through a 51V zener diode. While providing a referenced voltage for g2, the zener diode value is chosen to ensure that in normal operating conditions, whichever rectifier is chosen, the voltage across g2 will not exceed 300V.
As the 307A is a direct heated pentode, its heater wire is at the same time its cathode. Besides the known AC hum related issues, this poses as well the voltage referencing problem – there is a definitive need for a reference point substituting the cathode connection in indirect heated tubes. This reference point can be created with a wire-wound potentiometer which can be used as well for hum-nulling, but besides the fact that a pair of resistors costs less than a pot, I tend to have more faith in a soldered connection than a pot slider. Since the hum-nulling spot will inevitably be the center position, the best solution is to match two resistors (100 ohms) and use them to connect in series the two heater-cathode terminals: in  this manner the mid-point between the two resistors becomes a cathode reference point.
Being a true pentode, the 307A has a suppressor grid (g3), and being a direct heated tube, this grid has its own pin. Since the suppressor grid in pentode mode should be connected to the cathode, in this case the connection should be performed between the g3 pin and the “cathode reference point”.
The current setting circuitry comprises the usual LM317 and a current setting resistor, in this case 27 ohms. This means a constant current draw at the cathode of approximately 46mA, of which 43mA are anode current, while 3mA are g2 current (estimates based on the datasheet, and on mathematical operations subtracting driver current draw from the voltage drop across the transformer primary). To bypass the cathode circuitry, each heater connection is decoupled to ground via a 100uF 63V (or 100V) cap, providing a direct AC path from cathode to ground.
The heating of the output tubes could warrant a debate of its own – choices vary between AC and DC, where DC can be un-regulated, regulated, or fixed current. Whichever choice is made, it is very important to keep the cathode circuitry intact: I can only stress so much the importance of the “cathode reference point” in the connection towards ground.
My choice is always the simplest solution – AC heating. AC heating has several theoretical advantages and some shortcomings. The most important theoretical advantage is having the same potential (DC voltage) across the entire length of the cathode (heater). The most important (and audible) shortcoming of AC heating is hum (AC mains 50Hz or 60Hz low hum) which can be heard oh-so-much without the proper hum-nulling potentiometer, or the cathode reference point solution which I advocate. Even nulled, hum can still be heard, depending on the efficiency of the speakers. On my “common real world speakers” of approximately 90dB sensitivity – hum can be heard from the vicinity of the woofer, but is completely inaudible a couple of meters away (listener’s position), even during the quiet late night hours. AC heater hum depends as well on the heater voltage and is definitely lower than with 6B4G tubes, due to the 5.5V heater voltage as opposed to the 6.3V required for the 6B4G: I would guess it is comparable to the hum produced by an AC heated 300B amp.
A further shortcoming of AC heating is maybe more theoretical and seldom mentioned: due to the sinusoidal nature of AC current, the heaters (cathode) are not at the same exact temperature all the time… which temperature changes 50 (or 60) times per second. With DC heating, the temperature is constant since the voltage is constant as well… but I guess this is more metaphysics than real world experience.
The main advantage of DC heating is the lack of hum – but the rectifying and regulating circuitry is directly connected with the cathode and thus very much in the signal path (while the cathode current source made with the LM317 and current setting resistor is not, since it is bypassed with the two caps providing a separate AC path). Frankly, for high efficiency speakers (96dB and more) DC heating is the only reasonable option. In that case, whichever solution is chosen (regulated, current draw…) the output terminals should be connected to the heaters terminals on the schematics, and the rectifying/regulated DC circuitry MUST NOT be connected to ground.
Last but not least, the output transformers issue… The operating point is largely chosen on the recommendations given in the datasheet, at 43mA anode current and anode voltage slightly in excess of 300V (across the tube), taking care not to exceed the 15W anode dissipation rating. The chosen anode load is 5k – basically the same load used in all the 1st generation RH amps, which is very similar to the datasheet recommendation. The 9W output power seems too high if compared with a 15W anode dissipation – but it can be expected that usable power will reach 7W. While I have not performed any measurements on my amp, it does go very loud – way above 6B4G levels, and definitely louder than the RH84. It is thus safe to say that the “usual” console amp output transformers that can be used for an RH84 can be used for the RH-307A as well, but a decent pair of output transformers is definitely in order if the full potential of the amp is to be unlocked.
The power supply should foresee at least three low voltage secondary windings, since each output tube must have its own, and the driver tube must be heated separately from the output tubes. Another low voltage secondary is needed for the rectifier tube – if one is used (which I always advocate). I would recommend the choke input solution as documented – after all, due to the DH nature of the output tubes, this amp immediately commends more respect than a humble EL84 tube. Still, the most important requirement is achieving between 360V and 380V at the B+ point. This is the variation between 5Y3GT and 5U4G in the proposed schematics, the latter touching 15W anode dissipation (in my amp – slight variations are possible with different DCR values of chokes and output transformer primary).
The choice of tubes is in this case limited to the driver and of course the rectifier tube – the 307A having no compatible replacements that I know of, including those with a different socket. Thus, while the driver circuit is designed having in mind the ECC88 family of tubes (any ECC88 type will do, since expected anode voltage is 85-90V, way lower than the 130V limit for common ECC88/6DJ8). E88CC, CCa, 6921… all those tubes will perform flawlessly in the driver task. Besides those, direct replacements (same pins) that will allow the amplifier to achieve full power are 6BQ7, 6BQ7A, and ECC85 (6AQ8). The latter two tubes have lower (but still high) trans-conductance than the ECC88, but make up for it with a higher mu (the ECC85 has 58). While I have not tried it, I know that with a different socket wiring the 5670 (2C51) would do just as well as a 6BQ7A. All the tubes mentioned require 6.3V at the heaters and have internal shields: the shield should be connected with one of the heater connectors and directly to the ground, thus grounding the driver heater winding.

 
The rectifiers proposed are the usual 5R4 and 5U4, but due to the low current draw of this amp (110mA) it is also possible to use the 5Y3GT. The proposed power supply is choke first, and with the hybrid Graetz configuration each anode will “see” half the secondary voltage… at 260V and 110mA current draw, the 5Y3GT can be used in choke first power supplies without any worries or problems. If a different socket is used, 5Z3 and 80 are viable alternatives to 5U4 and 5Y3.
For the 307A heater windings, since 5.5V is an odd number, there is a simple and cost effective solution – 6.3V windings (again those 6B4G amps!) are perfectly suitable if 0.44 ohm resistors are placed in series with each terminal (at 1A current draw, 2x 0.4 ohms means 0.8V difference, i.e. exactly 5.5V – most 6.3V secondary windings give slightly more than 6.3V, and 0.4 ohms is not a standard value). 5V windings for 300B heaters might be probably used with success, since the 300B needs slightly higher heater current, thus the output will most probably be at least 5.3V at 1A.
The 307A (VT225) is a relatively odd tube which is poorly documented on the net. Besides a very popular high quality headphone amplifier, there is almost no other amplifier with this output tube -proposed or documented. Most amplifiers mentioned or seen use the 307A in triode strapped configuration, as some sort of “poor man’s” DHT – which is a shame, given the huge difference in power in comparison with the 15W anode dissipation DHTs (2A3 family including 6A3 and 6B4G). Actually, while the 1st generation of RH amps was mainly challenging comparative designs with EL84, 807, EL34 – the 2nd generation challenges further the more expensive and coveted DHTs, like 300B, 211/845, and the 2A3 family of tubes. As always, I prefer letting others judge the sound of RH amps, but in this case I will allow myself a hint: this amp sounds disturbingly good…